Khan Tengri (7,010m)
The Lord of the Sky
The Tian Shan range is an established region for high-altitude climbing, though it is less widely documented than the Himalayas or the Karakoram. Stretching north and west of the Taklamakan Desert, the Tian Shan forms a natural barrier across Kyrgyzstan, Kazakhstan, and the Xinjiang province. This isolated environment is characterized by large glaciers and peaks that offer significant technical challenges.
Within this range, Khan Tengri is a distinct pyramid of marble and ice. At 7,010m, it is the second-highest peak in the Tian Shan, after Jengish Chokusu (7,439m). The range serves as a tectonic link between the Pamir to the south and the Altai Mountains to the northeast.
Khan Tengri is located on the border of Kyrgyzstan and Kazakhstan, near the Chinese border. It stands east of Lake Issyk Kul, the world’s second-largest saline lake. Its position is notable as the northernmost 7,000m peak in the world.
This latitude affects the climbing conditions. The season is short, and weather changes are frequent. Arctic air masses can lead to rapid shifts in conditions. Due to lower atmospheric pressure at this latitude, the effects of altitude at 7,000m are more pronounced than at similar elevations in the Himalayas.
The name Khan Tengri translates to “Lord of the Sky” in Turkic languages. It has long been a landmark for those traveling through Central Asia. It is also referred to as Kan-Too (Blood Mountain) because the marble on the summit turns red at sunset, a feature that precedes the technical sections of its climbing routes.
Khan Tengri Historic Timeline
1931
First Ascent
A Soviet expedition led by Mikhail Pogrebetsky successfully completed the first ascent of the mountain. They reached the summit via the South Face and West Ridge, the route that now bears his name.
1964
The North Face First Ascent
A team led by Boris Studenin climbed the formidable North Face for the first time. This side of the mountain is significantly colder and more technical than the southern approach.
1987
First Winter Ascent
A Soviet team achieved the first successful winter ascent in February.
1990
The Speed Record
During a speed climbing competition, Anatoli Boukreev reached the summit from base camp (4,200m) in a staggering 6 hours and 27 minutes, a record that stood for many years.
2000
World’s Northernmost 7,000m Peak
Following precise GPS measurements, Khan Tengri was officially confirmed as the northernmost peak on Earth exceeding 7,000 meters, reinforcing its reputation for extreme “Siberian” weather conditions.
2004
Massive Avalanche Incident
A major tragedy occurred when a large serac collapse from Peak Chapaev triggered a massive avalanche on the Semenovsky Glacier, claiming the lives of 11 climbers and highlighting the objective dangers of the normal route.
Khan Tengri Express
Expedition Timeline
- Friday, July 27: Departure from France and flight to Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan.
- Saturday, July 28: Landed in Bishkek at 5:00 AM. Long drive to Karkara Camp (2,200m), reaching it at midnight.
- Sunday, July 29: Helicopter flight into the heart of the Tian Shan to Khan Tengri Base Camp.
- Monday, July 30: Acclimatization hike to Camp 1 (4,300m) followed by a return to BC.
- Tuesday, July 31: Load carry to Camp 1, pushing up to 4,750m before returning to BC.
- Wednesday, August 1: Rest day at Base Camp to recover before the summit push.
- Thursday, Aug 2 – Saturday, Aug 4: Progression through the high camps: C1 (4,300m), C2 (5,300m), and C3 (5,850m).
- Sunday, August 5: SUMMIT DAY. Successfully reached the top of Khan Tengri (7,010m) and descended to C3.
- Monday, August 6: Final descent from high altitude back to Base Camp.
- Tuesday, Aug 7 – Friday, Aug 10: Helicopter transfer to Karkara, drive to Bishkek, and return flight to France.
Bishkek
The expedition started in Bishkek, the capital of Kyrgyzstan. We then drove eight hours (460 km) eastward across the country, passing along the shores of the vast Issyk Kul Lake before finally reaching Karkara Camp (2,200m), where we spent our first night. From there, we flew by helicopter into the mountains to reach the Khan Tengri Base Camp.
Day 1: helicopter flight to Khan Tengri Base Camp
We left the grassy meadows of Karkara early in the morning and boarded a Mi-8 helicopter for our flight to the Khan Tengri Base Camp (BC).
In this remote corner of the Tian Shan, helicopter transport is not a luxury but the standard method of access. The vastness of the Inylchek Glacier and the total absence of roads or easy trekking trails through the rugged terrain make the flight a logistical necessity. These legendary Soviet-designed Mi-8 helicopters act as the lifelines of the range, transporting climbers, gear, and supplies to the base camp —a journey that would otherwise take nearly a week of rough trekking over glacier and moraine.
The 100 km flight was absolutely stunning, offering fantastic views over the jagged peaks and frozen rivers of the Tian Shan range. Landing on the glacier, we felt the immediate shift in environment as we stepped out into the heart of the “Celestial Mountains.”
Heart Rate: 90 bpm. Oxygen Saturation: 90%.
Day 2: Base Camp (4,050m) - Camp 1 (4,300m) - Base Camp
We left the base camp for a short acclimatization walk. We first headed to the Tian Shan Travel camp, located 30 minutes away, following an easy trail along the moraine. Since we felt good, we decided to push on toward Camp 1, climbing across the massive South Inylchek Glacier.
There were very few crevasses, and most were relatively small; however, we had to cross several ice rivers (meltwater streams) that were difficult to negotiate. We reached C1 in just two hours from the BC. The camp was strategically located at the junction of the Semenovsky and Inylchek glaciers. The distance between the BC and C1 was 6.8 km, with an elevation gain of approximately 300 meters.
BC-C1-BC: 13.5 km, ±300 m. Time: 3h40.
Heart Rate: 80 bpm. Oxygen Saturation: 90%.
Day 3: Base Camp - 4,750m - Base Camp (4,050m)
We left the base camp to carry food, ropes, and gear up to Camp 1 (2h). After caching our supplies, we continued halfway toward Camp 2, reaching approximately 4,750m to scout the famous Semenovsky icefall (1h30 from C1). This reconnaissance allowed us to assess the conditions of the glacier before returning all the way to base camp.
BC – 4,750m – BC: 19 km, ±750 m. Time: 6h10.
Heart Rate: 80 bpm. Oxygen Saturation: 89%.
Day 4: Rest day at Base Camp (4,050m)
It was snowing lightly. We spent a rest day at the base camp, preparing our kit, food and gear for the upcoming ascent.
Heart Rate: 74 bpm. Oxygen Saturation: 92%.
Day 5: Base Camp - Camp 1 (4,300m)
As the weather forecast for the following days was good, we left the base camp for our summit bid. We each carried a 20 kg pack containing all our kit, technical gear, and additional high-altitude food. With this significant weight, it took us 2h30 to reach Camp 1. A brief snowstorm moved in during the afternoon, but fortunately, the sky cleared up later in the evening, leaving us with a hopeful outlook for the climb ahead.
BC – C1: 6.8 km, +300 m. Time: 2h30.
Heart Rate: 82 bpm. Oxygen Saturation: 90%.
Day 6: Camp 1 - Camp 2 (5,300m)
It took us an hour and a half to get ready, and we left Camp 1 at 4:30 AM. Along the way, we retrieved the gear we had cached two days prior; combined with what we were already carrying, we ended up with a staggering 25 kg packs.
Although we were the last to leave camp, we progressively overtook most climbers before reaching the icefall. Unfortunately, seven climbers were still ahead of us when we arrived at the 20-meter serac equipped with a fixed rope. It took them an agonizing two hours to climb the section. During this entire time, we remained dangerously exposed to potential serac falls and avalanches from Peak Chapaev. Once past the serac, it took us only 20 minutes to reach Camp 2. Our total moving time was 6 hours from C1, excluding the two hours spent waiting.
C1 – C2: 4.5 km, +1,050 m. Time: 6h (moving time).
Heart Rate: 75 bpm. Oxygen Saturation: 78%.
Day 7: Camp 2 - Camp 3 (5,850m)
Due to our limited acclimatization and the 1,000m elevation gain the previous day, we did not spend a very restful night. For once, however, we were the first team to leave Camp 2. Still hauling our 25 kg packs, we headed toward Camp 3 across gentle snow slopes.
The temperatures rose quickly as soon as the sun hit the face, and it was surprisingly warm by the time we reached Camp 3. We set up our tents on a narrow shelf directly beneath the massive serac of the West Col.
C2 – C3: 1.75 km, +550 m. Time: 2h40.
Heart Rate: 81 bpm. Oxygen Saturation: 77%.
Day 8: Camp 3 - Khan Tengri Summit (7,010m) - Camp 3
Most teams usually spend a night at Camp 3 to complete their first acclimatization rotation before returning to base camp. While this is arguably the best way to acclimatize, it also means completing two round trips of 26 km and +2,000m with heavy packs—and more importantly, passing through the dangerous icefall and beneath the Chapaev slopes several more times.
We had decided beforehand to try a different strategy: climbing to Camp 3, resting there for a day or two, and then pushing straight for the summit. Unfortunately, the weather window was limited to only 24 hours, so we couldn’t afford the extra rest day as planned. However, we felt good, and with an oxygen saturation of 77%, we decided to go for it.
We woke up at 3:00 AM, but our progress was slow—especially melting snow for water—and we didn’t leave Camp 3 until 5:00 AM. We were the last two climbers to leave the camp. The weather was perfect: a light wind and a temperature of -25°C (windchill -31°C).
We reached the summit of Khan Tengri after 10 hours of climbing.
We spent 30 minutes at the summit before beginning our descent. Due to the numerous abseils, it took us 4h40 to get back down to Camp 3.
C3 – Summit: 2.5 km, +1,200 m. Time: 10h.
Summit – C3: 2.5 km, -1,200 m. Time: 4h40.
We reached the summit of Khan Tengri after ten hours of sustained climbing. We spent thirty minutes at the top, taking in the vast, jagged horizon of the Tian Shan, before beginning our long descent.
Day 9: Camp 3 - Base Camp
The night had been short, and we were still exhausted from the 15-hour climb of the previous day. We packed all our gear, cleaned out the tent, gathered our rubbish, and began the long descent.
Later, we made a quick stop at Camp 2 to retrieve the extra food and waste we had left there, continuing our descent with massive packs once again. We made one final stop at Camp 1 to pick up the remaining gear stored there. We finally reached Base Camp after six hours, arriving just in time for lunch. It was a relief to finally drop our loads after nearly 2,000 meters of descent.
C3 – BC: 13 km, -1,900 m. Time: 6h.
Day 10-12: return to France
Immediately after our return to base camp, the weather shifted and it began to snow heavily. Between the exhaustion from our ascent, the ridiculously small food rations remaining at base camp, the deteriorating weather, and the few days we had left, it became clear that a summit bid on Peak Pobeda was no longer feasible. We decided it was time to head home.
After waiting a couple of days for the helicopter, we made our way back to France in just a few days, thanks to excellent logistics.
Information
Khan Tengri: South Face and West ridge
We climbed the Pogrebetsky route on the South Face and West Ridge of Khan Tengri. The route was rated AD+ (or Russian 5a). Our base camp was located on the South Inylchek glacier at 4,050m. From there, we established three high camps at 4,300m, 5,300m, and 5,900m.
From Camp 1, the route ascended along the Semenovsky glacier. It then crossed a technical icefall starting at 4,900m, passing directly beneath the exposed slopes of Peak Chapaev. Camp 2 was situated above the icefall at approximately 5,300m in a relatively safe zone.
From Camp 2, the route continued over moderate snow slopes toward the West Col. The col sits at 5,900m, and we set Camp 3 just 50 meters below it. At the time, there were about eight tents and two snow caves established there.
Finally, above Camp 3, the terrain steepened with ice and snow sections reaching up to 60°. The route followed the ridge over sustained mixed terrain. The crux was a short rock wall rated UK 5a at 6,700m. Beyond this section, a final snow ridge led us to the summit at 7,010m.
